Re: How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D?
- From: RF <RF@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 20:51:05 -0700
weelliott@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
On Jul 21, 7:49 pm, RF <R...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:RF wrote:weelli...@xxxxxxxxx wrote:I had my run and got the engine normal operatingOn Jul 21, 1:14 am, RF <R...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Thanks WE.I have an old thread called Oil Spots on an AirOnce my 300D turbodiesel is warmed up the exhaust is perfectly clear.
Filter that is in the process of being deleted "
Error! newsgroup server responded: Bad article
number," so I'll take over here.
I have used the adjustment screw on the rear of
the IP to reduce the exhaust smoke from the 240D.
The reduction was considerable but it is still
smoky. There is no blue color - it's now grey.
The question is just how clear should the smoke
be? Subjective question I know but efforts will be
appreciated.
If I am following my car and the driver floors it there is a light
hint of smoke at low speeds, but over 15 or 20 the car is moving along
enough that you can't even detect it. And it is set pretty rich too.
You really shouldn't be able to detect any smoke either while it is
warm and idling or while driving.
My engine was not hot when I last checked the exhaust. I'll take a run
soon and will then check the exhaust color.
Have a great week :-)
temperature but there was no great change in the
smoke condition.
Now I am thinking of 3 tasks that could help it.
1 Do the purge on the IP and injectors.
DieselGiant has an article on this and it seems
like they used a soft drink plastic bottle to hold
the purging fluid, with two holes in the cap, two
short hoses, one to the IP inline filter and the
other to the top of the spin filter. The IP sucks
the fluid out, some of which burns as the engine
runs and the rest returns to the bottle.http://dieselgiant.com/injectorcleaning.htm This
is for an OM617 but the pictures look like my 616.
2 Adjust the valves. This looks straightforward.
3 Adjust the timing chain. Info on this one seems
to be lacking. The MBZ manual, and DieselGiant
describe the replacement of the chain but I can't
find any instructions for adjusting the tension.
Is it simply a matter of adjusting the tension
bolt until the noise is a minimum or is there
another criterion?
TIA- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
I would definitely suggest #1. The purge gave my car a lot of power.
If it is dirty in there all sorts of bad stuff can go on. Use two cans
of the lubromoly when you do it. I heard a few months ago that the
lubromoly was available at advane so I checked, btu they didn't have
any at my local advance. They did swear by seafoam though. The manager
there has an old diesel tuck and he said it really improves the
performance when he puts it in. I bought two cans but haven't done it
yet. It doesn't say on teh can that you can run it through the engine
straight like the lubromoly, but then again I don't think it says that
on the lubromoly either. Just food for thought.
Thanks WEE.
Nobody in northern CA seems to know anything about the purge so I had to order it
from San Diego.
Meantime, I got on with #2 and adjusted the valves. Interestingly, 3 of the 4
exhaust valves were right on target - 0.3mm. The 4th was 0.2 mm. One of the
inlet valves was 0.1mm. The other 3 inlets had no clearance at all. - Phew! However,
they had not been adjusted for about 10 years - yeah, I know :-(
Now I have the IP problem again - the peeing manual pump (MP).
I had to remove the complete fuel pump (FP) to replace the MP*. About a pint of oil drained out and getting the connection on the IP cleaned up and the gasket scraped off was an unpleasant 2 hours of work. I disconnected the output fuel line just at the fuel pump and the inlet fuel line right after the inline filter, and then removed the FP.
Removing the old MP and replacing it was then very easy.
I then had a look into the fuel-out line of the pump. It has a dinky little delivery valve
under a collar - the manual calls it a holder. This holder is a tube of about 1/2" diameter and 1/2" tall. A gap of about 1/4" wide is cut along the length of this collar. I'm curious to know the reason for this construction. When the pipe connection from the outlet line is threaded down into place it goes down outside this collar. The gap in the collar could be facing any direction - for example, it could be facing the inlet port of the incoming fuel or facing in the opposite direction. There seems to be no way to hold it facing the inlet port, which seems to be the most logical direction for it to face.
Enlightenment here would be appreciated.
*This was a typical example of manufacturers minimizing the materials and crowding
the componments so close together that, for maintenance or repair, the time and cost are far higher. One small change at the base of that FP would allow a wrench to reach the MP, so it could be replaced in a matter of a few minutes. Does any manufacturer pay attention to maintenance and repair tasks?
TIA
.
- References:
- How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D?
- From: RF
- Re: How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D?
- From: weelliott@xxxxxxxxx
- Re: How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D?
- From: RF
- Re: How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D?
- From: weelliott@xxxxxxxxx
- How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D?
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