Re: Charging circuit in 1982 TDT only putting out 13 +/- .2 volts

Don't get into trouble!

Go to the Better Business Bureau, in an area like Vegas. They'll love to put
a seedy shop on notice, that they are on the shit list. They can negotiate
to a certain extent.

Then, there's Small Claims Court.

You seem like you are good with your hands, and have a better chance of
winning, than an all thumbed Academic.

o this is your rectum before jail, O this is your rectum after jail!

I wish you well.

RK
"heav" <paul@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1194200829.064240.220380@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Thanks. I just took the battery out of the car and it may be the
battery. I had the AC worked on this summer, and the nitwit punk
"mechanic" at the AC place really screwed up a lot of things,
including making a hose that blew the second day after I got the car
back. He also didn't remove and replace the ground wire's battery
clamp by loosening it. He must have pried it off and pounded it back
on, because he cracked the case of the battery and probably broke some
of the internal connections. I will know better after I get the
battery tested at Sears. The thing that burns me up is that he will
have voided the warranty unless the kid at Sears is equally
incompetent and does not notice the small crack in the case. I had
just gone to war with the AC place to get a refund on the work that
failed, and it was only after that that I noticed the battery cable
was not on properly and that the case had been cracked by a ham fisted
idiot, so I just epoxyed the crack hoping the battery would be OK
because I was sick of arguing with the owner at Auto Air and More at
Las Vegas on Tropicana.

I am still finding things that that dope fouled up. Yesterday I
replaced the homemade hose that ruptured that he put on with an actual
replacement part and to do it I had to remove the cruise control
actuator and discovered that he apparently lost one of the bolts that
hold the bracket down and had cross threaded in a bolt that wasn't
right in its place, semi stripping one of the holes in the mount
bracket. Also, he had put my air cleaner housing on with the oil
drain from the housing outside the drain tube leading to the oil pan,
thereby exposing my oil to drawing in air through that tube straight
in to the crankcase unfiltered. Also he broke one of the rubber air
cleaner housing mounts. Just great drawing air unfiltered into the
crankcase on a new motor I just spent 6 grand on! That kid is lucky I
can't get my hands on him this morning!

That's why I never let anyone touch my vehicles, but they don't let
you fill your own AC anymore, which, in my case, is stupid. I would
not have put together a system that blew in two days . . .

I have to try and cool down before I go in and try and get the owner
to make good on that battery next week or I may get myself in
trouble . . .

Thanks for the 30 miiliamp figure.

On Nov 4, 9:54 am, "Karl" <aufe...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
"me" <nos...@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message

news:rOmXi.48958$8G5.9618@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

I would run the following test:

Remove negative battery cable from the battery.

Using a 12-volt test light, hook one end to the negative battery post
the other end to the negative battery cable you just disconnected.
The test light will glow or "light" if there is a drain.

If the "light or glow" is faint, that is probably normal draw for the
clock or computer.

If the "light or glow" is bright, then there is a large drain.

That should be corrected. Now start removing and replacing the fuses
one by one until the light goes out; that one will be the circuit with
the drain.

Remember to hold in the button in the door jam for the interior
lights.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

A more accurate test is to use a multimeter set to DC milleamps. Ant draw
more than 30 milleamps will drain a battery.

And if you open a door, you need to reconnect the battery so the dome
light
turns off, IF you have the large front dome light. Just holding the
button
in after you open the door still leaves a massive draw because the timer
circuit in the light assembly was triggered. It does not get enough
current
thru the test light or multimeter to cycle off.




.

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