Re: Broken caliper bolt won't extract



If in the $40 price range, you got a deal...but charges need to
be on mastercard if at all possible. Really need to get this fixed
soon. Thanks! Jim

On Sun, 16 Oct 2005 13:06:57 GMT, "Karl" <aufever@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

>New is big $$$. I am talking good used. Nothing wrong with good used as long as it has a good lower
>ball joint.
>
>Not sure on price until I go get it. But you are probably in the $40 range + postage.
>
>Pmail at my email address in my post. ASAP
>
>
>"Geronimo" <someone@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
>news:pre4l1pbnqhof409koge1cjg92uke6dl91@xxxxxxxxxx
>> Yea....the bolt (and later the extractor) broke off flush with the
>> SPINDLE. Actually slightly below...thus nothing at all to keep top end
>> of caliper from rotating. Sorry for the confusion from not knowing the
>> proper terminology for that part. By turning the steering wheel all
>> the way to the right, I could work on the broken stub from the INSIDE
>> of the left spindle. Yea, I'd have to take off the rotor to attack it
>> from the outside.
>>
>> Okay, how much would a new LH front spindle and a couple of caliper
>> bolts cost me, Karl? Its a 1985 300SD, W126. Do you have an internet
>> store? If it is something real expensive, then I would have no choice
>> but to remove the spindle and have a machine shop fix it....that is if
>> they have any way to deal with drilling out a hole with a hardened
>> steel extractor in it! Thanks all.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, 16 Oct 2005 03:52:13 GMT, "Karl" <aufever@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>> >Dumb question: WHY did you want to remove the caliper bolts to replace the pads?!?!?
>> >
>> >You drive out the 2 pins, remove the spacer, open the bleeder, take a screwdriver and pry the
>pads
>> >back so the piston goes into the caliper.
>> >[connect a hose to a jar and have it at the bottom, this way you won't suck air back in.]
>> >
>> >Some people don't open the bleeder to dump the old fluid, but this just pushes the old fluid back
>> >into the master cylinder.
>> >
>> >"Geronimo" <someone@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
>> >news:la92l1937i1bbp09qnb67siujdpp5oggss@xxxxxxxxxx
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> It s a 1985 300 SD. The upper/fwd bolt securing the LH front brake
>> >> caliper to the wheel broke when pads were being replaced. It was
>> >> frozen and I forced it too much. Big mistake! I think that part that
>> >> the shank of the bolt is lodged inside (that the caliper bolts to) is
>> >> part of the strut/hub assembly. Not sure of the exact name of this
>> >> assembly. My Haynes manual doesn't show a complete breakdown of the
>> >> front wheel/suspension.
>> >> This is very bad, as no matter how much I tighten the other
>> >> remaining bolt, the first time you hit the brakes in reverse, the top
>> >> of the caliperl moves backward, and then it rubs against the inner
>> >> surface of the wheel.
>> >> Anyway, I bought a Sears screw extractor and matching Ti-Ni drill
>> >> bit. Had a reverse-spiral and square end. Drilled out the center of
>> >> broken bolt stud, all the way to the tip. Hammered extractor in. Put
>> >> a lot of rust-dissolving lube on it. Waited for lube to do its thing
>> >> a long time. With a pipe wrench on it, the broken stud still wouldn't
>> >> turn out. So I applied blowtorch to the area next to the bolt hole
>> >> while turning. The extractor broke! It broke flush, so there is
>> >> nothing to grip on to, in order to back it out. So now I have an even
>> >> worse problem.
>> >> Need some advice on what to do next. Have never removed rotor from
>> >> a car before, can I get access to the broken bolt stud from the outer
>> >> side by removing the rotor? I could try just drilling it out the full
>> >> diameter of the bolt and then re-thread both strut/hub for a little
>> >> bit larger bolt. But trying to drill it out now is going to be next to
>> >> impossible, as the hardened steel broken extractor is in there.
>> >> Thanks for the help.
>> >
>>
>

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